15th of May
Breakfast at the hotel is top and we get picked up and an easy drive to the airport. There Mr. Mohammed is already waiting for us. Take-off is slightly delayed due to some issues with filing our flight plan. But all works out and we are in the air soon. The flight to Esfahan takes 1 1/2 hours and is without any problems. Easily out of the airport where our guide is waiting for us.
Mr. Sadeqzadeh Naini is a tour guide for over 20 years and knows things inside out. After checking in at the hotel we have lunch there in the revolving restaurant on top of it. Quite nice view and good food – for USD 60.00 for the four of us not too bad.
Afterwards we drive to Jolfa, the Armenian quarters. It dates back from the time of Shah Abbas I, who transported a colony of Christians from the town of Jolfa en masse and named the village „New Jolfa“. Abbas sought their skills as merchants, entrepreneurs and artists and he ensured that their religious freedom was respected. At one time over 42’000 Armenian Christians lived here. Today there are a number of Armenian churches and an old cemetery, serving a cChristian community of approximately 5’000.
Afterwards we visit several mosques – and they are impressive. The first one, Masjed-e Shah (Iman Mosque), we can’t go in since they have a very special service there. People are praying in the mosque for 3 days. So we have to respect it and continue to the Naqsh-e Jahan (Iman Square). The name means „pattern of the world“ and was the centerpiece of Abbas’ new capital. At 512m long and 163m wide, this immense space is the second larges square on earth, after Mao Zedong’s Tiananmen Sq. in Beijing. In the old days it was also used as a polo ground and the goal posts still can be seen.
Next stop is Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah (Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque). The richness of this mosque’s blue-tiled mosaic designs and its perfectly proportioned Safavid-era architecture form a visually stunning monument. The Kakh-e Ali Qapu (Ali Qapu Palace) is where the royal family lived and is as impressive as the other buildings
We visit some of the handicraft shops where they sell beautiful miniatures, visit a carpet shop where we get Iranian carpets explained before we head for tea at the Abbasi Hotel, a former caravanserai. A real beautiful place! Dinner we have at a restaurant on top of a mountain with a beautiful view over the city.
16th of May
Breakfast at the hotel is a bit „gewöhnungsbedürftig“ and we get picked up by our guide at 09.00h. Today is the whole day sightseeing in Esfahan, Iran’s third largest city and number 1 tourist destination.
First we visit Kakh-e Hasht Behesht (Hasht Behesht Palace). This, the only surviving palace on the royal precinet was built as a pleasure pavelion and reception hall in the 17th century. What a beautiful building. Next stop is Pol-e Si-o-Seh (Bridge of 33 Arches). Here we wander around and people start to talk to us. A little girl, with her friend and mother, wants to practice her English with us. Again we are surprised how open and friendly the Iranians are! Then we continue the to the Martyr’s Cemetery where we realize how useless war is. Before we visit one of the Pigeon Towers (Esfahan relied on pigeons to supply guano as fertilizer for centuries), we are offered some food by a family having a picnic in front of the tower. The tower itself is very interesting and there are even some pigeons living there.
At the Zurkhanh Ali Gholi Agha (sports club) we see some traditional Iranian kind of martial art. Our guide is just great and we are the only tourists there. A short stop at the near Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha, an old spa that is an interesting museum now. Lunch we have at the Restaurant Shahrzad, said to be Esfahan’s best restaurant. It looks like the „Kronenhalle“ in Zurich and the food is outstanding. When we get out of the place there is quite a line of people queuing up to get in – a real popular place!. We stop at Manar Jonban (Shaking minarets), The minarets are built in such a way that they withstand earthquakes and therefore they „shake“. Right next to it, on top of a hill, is Ateshkadeh-ye (Fire Temple), dating back from Sassanian times.
On the way back on side roads we see one of the Iranians favorite pastime: Picnic. They are all over, barbecuing and eating while sitting on carpets. We walk through them, taking pictures and again we get invited and offered food. But we eat at a local restaurant near the Iman Square. This time we can enter Iman Mosque, watch while men are praying before we stroll over the big square. Again friendly people talk to us and we have some funny conversations.
The son of our guide plays traditional Iranian music and we get invited to his home. With two friends he plays really well and we are again impressed by the friendliness. Back home late; too late to update the webpage. Sorry folks!
