9th of May – Assekrem

Another early wake-up at 5.15h since we have a long flight today. Refueling is in In Salah where temperature in the summer can reach 60 degrees Celsius is going extremely smooth. From there on we fly low towards Tamanrasset (or as it is also called tAM) where immigration turns out to be a problem. Since it is military zone, they want to give us a visa for only 24 hours. With the help of the handling agent and our guide Abdelkader Regdada, they promise to give us another 24 hour extension if we show up tomorrow again at 14.00h. Kader has to see the Chief Prefect while we wait in the parking lot. Our guide seems to be a very respected personality here and everybody knows him.

So we take off with 2 hours delay and we leave tAM behind us. As soon as we reach the city limits, Kader puts on his traditional Tuareg clothing and we know immediately: he is a man of the desert. We stop for a simple but very tasteful lunch under trees and then go into the desert. The Toyota is very comfortable and Kader is the best driver in desert I have ever seen. The sun is getting lower and the desert is magical! It is very difficult to describe the feelings; we are just quiet and are overwhelmed by such a nature!

We reach Assekrem 17.50h right in time for the sunset at 18.03h. Up we sprint to the highest point;  timely to see the sun go down. We were told it it one of the nicest sunsets on the planet; well it‘s nice but in the Swiss mountains it ain‘t bad either.

Back in the Refuge we realize how basic the place is. We all stay in one room, the blankets have not been to a cleaner in months and the iron beds have seen better days either. Toilets are rural and showers don‘t exist. But the dining room is cozy and Kader first prepares us a Tuareg tea. Just out of this world. We are very honored when he prepares over the open fire a traditional Tuareg appetizer of heart and liver of a baby lamb. This is served to good friends of the family only. During our discussions after dinner we realize what a strong personality with a lot of humor, knowledge and respect our man of the desert is. We are really honored to have made his acquaintance and to become his friends!

The stars in the sky are awesome! The night is not as cold as we thought and we are quite comfortable. Since we are up at 2‘780 meters, none of us sleeps very well. But who cares; we just had another great day with so many impression on our journey. Again it seems we left Switzerland weeks ago!

10th of May – Tamanrasset

The alarm goes off at 05.15h but everybody is already awake. It is daylight and so we climb again the way to the top of the mountain. The sky is a little clouded and the sun is coming up at 06.02h. Again nice but not really spectacular – maybe we are just spoiled from home!

After breakfast we take off and realize while going down how high we were here! Kader impresses us again with his driving and we enjoy the spectacular scenery of the desert! There are birds, donkeys, camels, lizards; so who says there is no life in the desert. But it is a tough place to survive. Even the plants here look very tough and battle hardened.

We stop at a small oasis where Kader meets some of his Tuareg friends. We go down to the pond where the water formed some pools over the centuries. There are even fish here in the desert and we were told that a man drowned here a couple of years ago; he fell into the water and couldn‘t swim. All of a sudden the desert starts to bloom with lovely flowers. Kader tells us that the red ones are poisonous for the camels!

Off we go again and stop for a picnic lunch before we enter tAM again. We have to be at the airport to pick up our visa extension for the next 24 hours. We think that optimistically it will take at least 1/2 hour. How pleasantly are we surprised when the police officer comes back not even after 5 minutes with our papers. Later we learn from Kader that he knows the Chief of the police very well and he had some words with him yesterday. What an impressive man, our guide!

We go straight back to the hotel Kader reserved for us and are pleasantly surprised. What a difference to the Refuge. And how nice it is to take a shower and shave; pure luxury!!!

After some sightseeing in the local markets and craft shops, we are invited at Kader‘s house for a Tuareg Couscous. We are honored to meet his family and the food is just outstanding! During dinner there are even a few raindrops but there is no wind and it feels quite hot. Today it was 37 degrees here in Tamanrasset. Our flight report for tomorrow tells us that we can expect 9 degrees more in Agadez!

We are very pleasantly surprised with our first destination in Africa. Algeria is huge, has friendly people and a stunning scenery!